Longido at last!

Forgive me if I sound distracted. There is a large noisy cow outside the window at the new internet center. It has taken an hour of juggling IP addresses, but I have unbelievably connected at a reasonable speed from the comfort of a new building on the LOOCIP compound.

Saturday, moving day, began with a bang. Well actually more of a screech. We were hit by a lorry as we made our way to our waiting transport from Arusha. The ugly metal on metal sound as small Suzuki met the side of large lorry was far worse than the ultimate superficial damage. In the end it only amounted to a frustration and a delay.

We got our gear piled into a hired Peugeot...a great one with no evident duct tape holding any necessary bits on, and a terrific driver to boot...and made our way to Longido through the familiar but dusty landscape. Arriving at the complex was a regular hugfest. My wee Arnold has grown so much and came running for hugs from Mama Jotu. So many welcoming faces.

Our tent camp is difficult to describe..hopefully I can upload photos soon. The panorama from my tent porch includes Kilimanjaro, Mt. Meru., and miles and miles of big African sky. The trees are full of birds especially in the early morning.

The only downside so far, is the night wind which begins at 9pm and goes til after midnight. My tent howls and flaps and I haven't been able to learn to sleep through the noise yet. But, the mesh window at my bedside lets me look out at a blanket of stars in the blackest night you could imagine.

I'm rushing to vacate this space for an incoming class. I will try to write again soon.

Healthy, happy, getting adjusted, all's well.

Tanzanian re-entry

I had been anticipating the smells...the delicious ever-present wood smoke and florals, and wasn't at all disappointed from the moment I stepped out of the plane following an uneventful and mercifully short journey this time -- only 24 hours of travel time from door to door.

It all feels like 'home', so incredibly familiar. Last evening found me at my favorite Arusha eatery, sitting outdoors next to a busy street with my collegues Corey and Stephen, sharing platters of barbequed fish and chicken and roasted sweet plantain. A charcoal water heater nearby, with a spigot for hand washing pre and post the feast, consumed without cutlery (unless you place a special request for it, and really...who'd want to!?!) So much more enjoyable to have 30 friendly fingers tearing off chunks of delicious fish, and scrambling for the yummy bits of shredded cabbage and carrots in whatever that delightful sauce was. Cold African beer to wash it all down.

The jacarandas and bougainvilleas are in full, glorious bloom. The weather is perfect...cool enough for a duvet at night, deliciously warm in the daytime. Today was spent buying odds and ends for equipping our tent houses, and hopefully we'll be travelling to the village (how, has yet to be determined) on Saturday.

The internet seems to be slower than ever, so it remains to be seen if I'll be able to start publishing photos anytime soon.

Home...in so many ways this does feel like home, though here in the city I know that in reality I likely could never feel comfortable living behind a gated fence, separated from my neigbours this way.

Justin Hines - Wish You Well

From my new favorite Canadian singer/songwriter, a song that says "Goodbye 'til I'm back" better than I possibly can.

Prelude to Longido Visit #3

September 14th, 2008. One month, precisely, from today I will have fallen down the rabbit hole, stepped through the mirror and found myself inhaling the smells of an African evening. The very act of saying that brings the anxiety up in my throat. And yet, I choose...

Thirty something days until...thirty something days to fill in advance with the things I know from experience will be most missed. Consciously and sometimes not I already find myself standing too long in a hot shower. I overindulge in cheese and yogurt and all those things that require the presence of a refrigerator in one's life, knowing full well that soon cheese will come to mean an occasional treat of a triangle of strange stuff bearing the image of a laughing cow (laughing, I'm sure, at the thought that some would consider the contents to be cheese). I'm drawn to the smörgåsbord of international cuisine that's available to me here, to seeing the latest films, to going to the theater and eating Cheetos just because for a little while longer, I can.

Thirty something days to overindulge my trusty dog in the hopes she'll not decide she loves her foster 'parents' more than me and sulk when the months are gone by and it's time to come back home with me. Days to fill with preventative inoculations and dental checkups and visa applications and nights to obsess over not having a loving face to memorize up close and keep ready for the nighttime ritual.

Each day in Africa ends, for me, with a need to recount the day and either laugh or cry...often alone, I resort to telling the day's stories to a pitch black sky filled with unbelievable numbers of stars, close enough to touch. I tuck myself in, under the mosquito netting around my bed, and not having a wealth of prayers in my repertoire, calm myself with some combination of “Now I Lay Me Down to Sleep” and the Serenity Prayer. And I learned, last time, that it's enough, well almost enough, to then be able to conjure up the vision of that loving face...there to listen and share and hold tight to til it all starts again with the next sunrise. And yet, with or without a face safely stowed in my carry-on luggage, I choose...

I choose to go back. I've finally got part of the answer to the “what's in it for you?” question that everyone who works in international development needs to search for the honest answer to. Africa is teaching me remedial lessons I somehow missed in the somewhat dysfunctional course of my life. Africa is introducing me (never too late) to a gamut of honest-to-god emotions...forcing me to express them, and trust them, and honor them as real. In the extremes of any African day, it is impossible not to feel and express the spectrum that is somehow kept tucked away, or denied, or at best politely muted or timidly acknowledged here...In Africa, I am flat-out angry, joyful, terrified, hopeful, sad, proud, fearful, frustrated, lonely, grateful and fearless. In Africa I laugh from my belly and can soak a pillow in tears. I choose not to miss the opportunity to keep learning these things, late perhaps, but never too.

Today I spent twenty minutes inside a noisy MRI machine, having my brain scanned. I needed a plan to deal with the otherwise inevitable claustrophobia...I chose to shut my eyes tight and spend twenty minutes walking through my Tanzanian village, seeing the faces of the friends there, smelling the ever present smoky smells, pausing for cows to cross the sandy road, hearing the greetings and the taunts of nervous children. I smiled at the thought of the MRI technicians maybe puzzling over a spot detected in the scan...glowing warmly with the distinct colors of an African sunset.

I choose.

Tanzania Re-Bound

Coming soon to this very spot...the adventure continues with travels to Tanzania and (hopefully) to northern Kenya, starting October 2008. It's been a challenging year-plus since my return to Canada, but the time has come to get my feet back onto African soil. Some of what were only notions in the earlier postings are now for-real projects...I'm looking forward to providing first-hand updates from Longido. So stay tuned and watch for new entries beginning approximately October 10th.

home

So here I am, back on Canadian turf and feeling pretty dazed and confused around just about everything.

I've discovered Facebook, and have posted a lot of my photos there. If my little bit of tech-savvy is functional, I believe the following links will allow everyone access to the photo albums I've created there. If not, well, please pop me an email to complain!!

Back to Longido: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=5074&l=04a2e&id=645672497

Camping in Africa: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=5065&l=fee2b&id=645672497

Almost Home

First, my excuse for the communication gap. I've had a long stint in the village during which, coincidentally, the email network I can normally access by cellphone decided to fluctuate between intermittent and non-existent! I am now in Arusha for the last time this trip and am making final preparations to leave Africa (via Kenya) on Monday.

Packing up my room has been harder than ever this time. It's amazing to realize that I've already put in a total of 6 months in Longido this year, and really strange to try and imagine not waking up in Africa next week.

So much has happened in the past few weeks. First of all, I have a new name. My Maasai friends had a great discussion about what to call me, one night at dinner (sitting around the outdoor cooking fire at Mama Farrajah's, warming our toes while we ate). I am now Noorkiramat which loosely translates to "the one who cares" (though someone last week told me it means "the one who belongs to the pastoralists" so who can be sure??) Either way, I accept it with pride, and love the responses that are evoked when I'm introduced to a new Maasai person that way.

Work-wise I ended up having to put in a lot more time than planned, setting up a simple manual accounting system for LOOCIP. And then, there were two days of facilitating a training seminar for the groups who wanted to learn about record keeping and writing up simple business plans for themselves. As usual, there are a pile of not-quite-done projects to carry home in my bags and try to finish off back at my own computer.

Plans are moving forward for the establishment of an emergency shelter/counselling centre for pregnant unmarried Maasai girls and I'm hoping we'll see at least a first phase up and running by November.

Having had all of my money stolen from my friend's house in Arusha mid-May has added a whole new element to this last month. My neighbors understand that I've had to be pretty tight with the replacement funds I've managed to get from home, and as a result have pretty much adopted me with respect to sharing meals and such, so as to not jeopardize the availability of money for various projects I've been supporting. As a result, I've been eating a much broader variety of truly local food, and been growing ever-closer to my neighbors. So much goes on in the process of preparing and sharing food as a family.

There have been some pretty wild moments too...some I'm still trying to process sufficiently to be able to describe them (keep an eye on post-return postings for more photos and some stories that haven't yet been told).

I'm trying to prepare myself for arriving to the heat of an Ottawa summer. Here, the past few weeks have brought progressively cooler temperatures, such that even in Longido I've needed a couple of blankets each night, and mornings definitely require lots of a layers and a sweater. Here in Arusha it's even cooler and part of me is wishing I had some proper socks and shoes (friends will know that's a pretty extreme statement from the woman who refuses to wear socks in Canada, except between Halloween and Easter). I may have to find a tanning salon...otherwise people will crack up if I appear in shorts or, yikes, a bathing suit. I have a tanned face and my forearms and feet are nice and toasty brown (well, by MY standards anyhow). The rest of me is never exposed to the sun here, so let's just say I'm dealing with an extreme version of a 'trucker tan'.

Must get back to packing, and then catch my ride out to the village.

Noorkiramat

Ups and Downs

The past few days have been such a roller coaster ride. I've (indirectly, don't panic) been robbed of all the cash I had left for this month's projects and expenses, I've had a motorcycle ride--deliciously helmetless (low speeds, again, don't panic) through the stunningly gorgeous nearby countryside, I've pigged out on Indian food in the city, watched old movies on HBO India, been inspired to think big and try selling CNN Africa on the idea of coming up here to cover some of our projects. I've had some good laughs...then almost cried...and waffled between "I want to go home...NOW" and "I never want to leave this place", more times than I would have imagined possible. I've marvelled at a world where technology lets me run to an ATM to restore my lost funds...and then marvelled even more at the fact that I am so incredibly fortunate to have that option! I've travelled to Arusha in the saddest looking Peugeot of the fleet...cracked windshield, masking tape over the blade-less wiper arm that sprang to life at will several times through the trip, indescribable engine noises at startup, and nine of us sitting in the seven available passenger seats...some more calmed than others by the windshield stickers which declare the car to be "Protected by the Blood of Jesus". I'm sitting at my 'dining room' table, with a cool breeze blowing through the house (everyone keeps telling me how COLD it is, though I'm ever so comfortable in just my jeans and t-shirt), listening to the chorus of bird songs that is so ever-present I rarely even notice any more. Somewhere a few houses down, Arnold is having a good giggle about something, and it's tempting to stop and go out and get my afternoon hugs from the little guy.

And, since this is Africa, and time spent here in the village is the best lesson anyone ever could have in 'living in the moment', I'm now shutting off the computer and heading outside to do precisely that!!

Of compost, rodents and the deep chill

Back in Longido after a very quick visit to the city (I needed to get some chocolate into me). I was teaching a class on business planning Saturday here at LOOCIP so I needed to come back to the village early in the morning. The class was fun as always. It's tough having to teach via a translator, but my co-teacher and I have pretty much got that down to a science and we've even got a few comic moments built into our spiel now. The students love it when I tell them stories about starting a business in Canada, or about how I'm really bad at negotiating prices and on arrival here was being charged about 4 times the going rate for everything from tomatoes to clothing. At the end of the class, there was the customary formal closing of the session by the class leader. I was really touched when this fellow stood up and said something loosely along the lines of "thank you teacher and please don't leave us until we have learned to do this work well".

Today's been a quiet day, but as always one with a few surprises.

This morning Mama Farrajah's kids came by to clean the house...I always feel lazy when I ask for help with the housework, but honestly I know that I couldn't possible manage to bend over and 'mop' the floors with a rag for more than a couple of minutes. So, the whole crew arrived to get the job done. Loveness wondered about using the bucket on my back stoop for a wash bucket. However, I knew I'd thrown a few bits of overripe fruit into it yesterday...the beginnings of a compost bucket (something I'm trying to encourage all the women of the compound to start doing). So, I tried explaining that to her, and was somewhat bewildered by the look I was getting...one of those 'are you nuts, lady??' looks. Anyhow, she set the bucket down and went off to find a more suitable one. A few minutes later, Michael was peering into the bucket and he too was getting my brief lesson in the values of composting. He kept staring hard into the bucket and was giving me the look as well. Round about that time, I happened to walk over and look into this controversial bucket...only to see a sadly drenched baby rat lying on top of my rotting bananas (it rained last night). I thought it was, literally, a drowned rat...but just then I saw some definite twitching going on.

Now, these kids are getting used to my sensibilities when it comes to the treatment of animals, so I guess they weren't too surprised when I asked Michael to dump out this soaked little rat onto the ground so it could go and find its mama. Poor little thing was so bedraggled, but managed to get on its feet and scoot off into the grass. So, maybe I've been here too long. I remarked to someone the other day that I had been sitting out on the stoop, watching the rats go back and forth from the grassy area to my garbage pit, and thinking how darned cute they were. They're not much like the urban rats back in Canada...the adults are only about the size of the white lab-type rats that Drew used to keep as pets and train to do tricks. And, their faces are more like hamsters or gerbils...without that ratty snout and beady eyes thing going on!

Much of the rest of my day was spent trying to keep warm. It's been raining off and on for the past few days and the temperature has really dropped suddenly...probably only about 65F today. Last night I slept comfortably under two blankets...something I couldn't imagine doing most nights. Apparently it may get even cooler over the coming weeks as we get into the African winter. And here I am, one fleece sweater to my name. Guess I'll need to hit the used clothing stores in Arusha next time I go to town. Who knew???

Back to Business!

Now that one of my blog-fans has emailed to say I'm sounding too much like a tourist and had better get back to work (thanks a bunch, Quinn!!) I think it's high time I wrote about what I'm up to here at LOOCIP these days.

First of all, I've been working up operational budgets for the organization and several of our individual projects. It's amazing how much optimism there is going forward when money is so incredibly scarce.

One of the programs I'm hoping will take off is called LECHE -- Longido Early Childhood Education. A wonderful Maasai woman named Sarah has started this program in the past few months. She's a retired schoolteacher and a big supporter of the Montessori method. Her dream is to establish Montessori pre-schools in small rural villages throughout the district, giving 2 to 6 year olds a real leg-up before they head off to the Primary School system. Because the mainstream schools here are primarily of the rote-learning variety (i.e. keep quiet, sit still and write down everything you are told so you can repeat it at exam time) this possibility to introduce creative thinking to young children is really exciting. The rural Maasai children will also become exposed to concepts that may otherwise be foreign to them on arrival at the primary boarding schools such as Kiswahili (the official school language). This should improve their confidence at Primary School as well as their chance of success and interest in continuing their education.

We were given a tour of the two currently-existing school sites last week--one housed in a LOOCIP-owned building in our village, the other about 6 kms away in the sub-village of Oltepesi. The Longido classroom had us snapping pictures like crazy -- 25 or 30 little tykes, ever so cute and busy sitting on their floor mats working with Montessori activities such as puzzles and stringing brightly coloured bottle caps. The Oltepesi school is the one that really captured our hearts though...as of now, the "school" consists of an area under a large shade tree. Because there's no money yet to go forward with setting up a proper Montessori classroom, activities are limited...the children were delighted to entertain us with the songs they've been learning, and to show us how they are learning to write numbers in the sand with sticks. To watch these eager little faces, so excited about coming to school, and yet with absolutely no facilities or supplies...it's hard to see without wanting to help out. We're putting together an information package and hoping to drum up some support from Canadian donors and schools. The project needs surprisingly little...$15,000 Cdn will enable Sarah to go forward with having a building constructed on land which the community has donated in Oltepesi (including living quarters for a teacher, a latrine and a small kitchen area) and will cover the teacher salaries and operational costs for both sites for a full year. If we can help to make that happen, next step is to assist Sarah to go forward with her bigger dream -- expanding to create a network of these pre-schools throughout the District.

Photos below: First, a little charmer at the Longido Montessori Pre-School....



The Oltepesi 'classroom'...















...and one of the Oltepesi students...

Last week also saw me repeating one of my favorite activities from my last visit...giving condom demonstrations and information to a group of women who were attending a training session which Corey was running at LOOCIP. Always makes for an interesting time!!

And, with time marching on, I'm still hoping to get a new project off the ground in Longido. My hope is that we can establish a counselling centre and short-term emergency shelter for unwed pregnant Maasai girls from area schools. I continue to meet with girls who are willing to share stories about the problem as well as other members of the community -- all of whom so far are 100% supportive of the idea, and eager to see it get started. There is such a lack of support for girls who find themselves pregnant. Government policy does not permit them to continue at school, from the moment pregnancy is confirmed. It seems there are virtually no services providing counselling or advice and most importantly, no one working to help bring families on board to support their daughters through the pregnancy but also allow them to return to school later. For the most part, girls who leave school to go home and have their babies are forced into marriage and will not have another opportunity to return to school. The stories I'm hearing are heartbreaking...young girls committing suicide or having high-risk illegal abortions rather than having to return home and give up on their dreams of going forward with an education. What I hope to see, is a facility that will offer caring, non-judgemental counsel and support in a broad range of areas--medical, legal, nutritional and educational, as well as offering a safe place where the girls can stay on a short-term basis.

So yes...perhaps I AM being just a bit more of a tourist this time around...but there is some serious work going on too!

Rainy Day in Arusha

Who'd have thought it could rain so long & so hard in Tanzania. I fell asleep to a huge thunderstorm last night (friends will know that's a GOOD thing in my view) and awoke to a continuing downpour. Heading back to Longido this afternoon after a relatively quick city-visit.

Sorry the postings are rather sparse. Perhaps much of this is becoming second-nature to me now, and as a result I may forget that even the everyday bits could be interesting to folks back home. I will try to find a free evening back in the village to write some updates.

Meantime, I'm happy and well, and making a good beginning at what I hope to help establish as a new community project for Longido District...I'm consulting with all sorts of folks about the possibility of opening a counselling and Emergency Shelter centre for unwed pregnant "girl mothers". The need is huge...the available services seem to be minimal. Hopefully we'll be able to go forward with this and truly make a difference in a number of lives. More info to come as (hopefully) things become more concrete.

By the way, I've just enabled email via my cell phone and am assuming it will work in the village as well as it does here! So please, keep those warm and wonderful emails from home heading to my joallgo@gmail.com account. They always brighten my day! My replies will be short -- nothing like trying to type on a phone keypad!?!?

Jotu

Not Quite the Easter Bunny!!

Chalk up another new experience...waking from a pup tent in Arusha National Park (where my friend and colleague Corey & I were the only campers in the entire place) to the sight of the Easter warthog and her two young ones contentedly grazing a stone's throw from our camp. She initially inspired thoughts of bacon for breakfast, but we let that pass and settled for watching the wee ones tussle about in mock fights between munchings.

We spent 24 hours in the park, mostly puttering along nasty roads through the rainforest, up the slopes of the mountain and along the lip of a crater. Arusha Park is relatively little-visited compared to the far more famous (and expensive) National Parks in Tanzania. Supposedly it offers limited opportunity for wildlife sightings and such. However, we saw zebra, buffalo, various gazelle-like critters, colobus and blue monkeys, baboons, some great birds and brilliant butterflies. And, after spotting piles of coconut-sized elephant poo every few meters along the road to a viewing spot at about 2000 feet, we were thrilled to see a small herd of forest elephants who were happy to pose for a photo shoot. Only thing we'd hoped to catch of a glimpse of, and didn't, was a leopard. Oh well, got to save something for another day!

Jotu! Jotu! The Cow, She Eat Your Pants!!

Greetings from Longido! I came back to the village on March 26th after taking a few days of R&R in Arusha, to recover from the 48 hour journey and to try to make progress in the fight against a nasty cold I'd brought along from Canada.

It's good to be back. Quite amazing how quickly I've slipped back into village life, and how incredibly wonderful it is to meet up with so many friends again. I got off to a great start with a road trip to Engaranaibor, have (for the first time) been spat on by an old man -- a blessing that wasn't extended during my first stay, and have begun to take more matters of daily living, such as cooking real meals from scratch, into my own hands.

So, this morning began with a sleepy-eyed walk to the neighbor's house to pick up 2 cups of milk, fresh from the source and still warm and frothy. Then home to pasteurize it, strain it, cool it, boil water, make coffee and (finally) a great morning latte! With my instant oatmeal plus the addition of a new find from the village market -- pears! -- I was able to put together something that passed for a reasonable breakfast.

I learned a critical laundry lesson today -- never hang your laundry on a line that's stretched over grass! After going through the joys of handwashing my clothes in my little tub, and rounding up some pegs for hanging it out, I was interrupted by cries of "Jotu! Jotu! The cow she eat your pants!!" My young neighbor appeared at my door bearing a pair of trousers which while filthy, didn't seem to have suffered too badly from the cow's little taste-test. Of course, while we were inspecting the pants and sending them back in the direction of my bathroom for rewashing, it was discovered that the cow had moved on to try a once-white T-shirt. Clearly that didn't meet her standards either and was trampled to the ground full of mucky hoof prints. The cow was hustled away by one of the nearby boys, my remaining laundry was relocated to another clothesline (this one over sand), and I chalked up another lesson learned.

Today, April 4th, I'm actually back in Arusha (hence the posting after a long delay). I'll be in town for about a week, as this is the Easter Break for many. Hope to go camping in Arusha National Park, and to have the chance to catch up with friends here in town. Will keep you posted!

Jotu

Back to Africa -- Today!!!

After the crazy six week flurry that was my visit home, I'm off to Montreal today to catch an evening flight to Amsterdam. Tomorrow night I'll be boarding a plane to Nairobi and Thursday I'll be making my way on to Arusha for a few days before returning to Longido.

Apologies are due to a number of folks I simply didn't have time to connect with while I was in Canada. I really had no idea how many loose ends I'd be busy tidying up nor how quickly the time would fly by. I think that when I come home again late in June, I'd best throw one big party and ensure I get to see everyone at once!!

Thanks to everyone who's contributed to my bulging return baggage full of medications, small toys for the kids, and computer training supplies. I can assure you that every bit of that will be appreciated at its destination.

I'm not sure what sort of schedule I'll be keeping this time around, but will do my best to keep the blog updated on a weekly basis. Those of you who were corresponding with me on the super-slow @habari.co.tz address should know that I may not be reestablishing that account this time around. However, news and greetings from home are always a treat at my gmail account when I get web access.

And now, once again....let the adventure begin!!

Jotu

Back in Ottawa -- for a while

Five days back and I'm still feeling a little lost and confused about being here. I've caught myself referring to Longido as "home" at least a half-dozen times, and have broken the news to friends and family that I'm hoping to get myself back to Africa before mid-March.

I'm enjoying my high-speed internet access and am happy to finally post a few more pictures for those of you who won't have the opportunity to see them first-hand.




This first one is my African dream house. It's actually a chapel, but I love the concept of the round house.














This is Arnold, taken back when he was still terrified of getting too close to me!













And this is the young man who was so delighted with seeing his photos full size on my laptop that we kept going back outside to take more shots! This was my attempt to capture him mid-jump.














On the right...the bride from the Boxing Day wedding, accompanied by one of my young housemates.










My debut as a Maasai dancer...













and more scenes from the wedding celebration.

Hours to home

Forgive my silent period...the past couple of weeks have been a wild ride and I couldn't really sort out what to say nor find much time to sit and write.

Here's a high point to tell you about -- I saw my first elephant, up close and personal. I was one of four people crammed into the front of a 2-seater Land Rover pickup truck, driving 60 km over horrible dirt roads to the village of Kitumbeine. TEMBO has 2 sponsored girls at secondary school there so we were off to pay their fees for the term. En route, we spotted a lone bull elephant near the roadside. Since I was travelling with 2 fearless Maasai men (as opposed to a tour service) we got way closer than good sense probably should have dictated. Afterward, I was assured that one of the men "knew elephant psychology" and was absolutely certain we were in no danger whatsoever. I'll never know, but sure got a lecture from some wazungus here in town, when they learned how close we'd been to the beast! Believe it or not, my camera battery chose that moment to die, so I have no proof of the proximity!

Almost as exciting, on the way back, with absolutely nothing but hot dry plain between Kitumbeine and Longido, we lost part of the axle from the Land Rover. Somehow, we managed to make it home -- by that time I'd decided the more comfortable option was to stand in the back of the pickup, holding the roll bar for stability. I've got a nasty sunburn as a result, but it truly was fun to be back there looking out at the surreal landscape with the wind in my hair. Tina was with me and I got her to join me in pretending we were flying. Of course back home this would be deemed unsafe these days (though I recall lots of drives in the back of a truck as a kid), but somehow in Africa it all works out.

So here I am, back in Arusha, with only a few hours before my flight to Amsterdam this evening. With an 8 hour layover there, I've got 27 or so hours of travel time to look forward to. Oh well, with luck I'll sleep my way across Africa tonight.

So many people to say goodbye to, even here in the city where I've spent relatively little time for the past few months. I've pretty much run out of money, so souvenir shopping was really limited. Just as well though, cuz no matter where I am on the planet, shopping is one of my least favorite activities. For now, I'll just finish up here, then head off for a last cool Bitter Lemon before my airport ride arrives.

Once I'm home, I'll post a lot of my photos for those of you who've been asking to see more.

Stay tuned for news about my plans for adventure #2, coming real soon.

Jotu

Sprinting to the Finish Line

It gets harder and harder to find time to write postings. With only about two weeks left before I leave Longido (probably January 31st), the list of things I really want to get done seems to be never-ending.

And just when it's time to leave...I'm getting signs of yet another step forward in my acceptance here. Little Arnold is finally happy to run to my arms for a hug. Today I saw (and contributed to the demise of) the biggest spider-like critter to have ever appeared here in our relatively bug-free guest house...yikes, I'll be tucking in the corners of my bed net tonight! My young housemates seem to have forgotten that I'm mzungu, and think nothing of offering to share a humble dinner of sorghum porridge (which I'm actually quite okay with accepting, so long as it's not an every day thing!). I continue in my role of problem-solver, but as the weeks go by the problems become far more personal and at times far more serious. There are still a lot of shared laughs...but now we've grown into occasional shared tears as well. In short, I'm feeling very much like part of this huge family.

My TEMBO colleagues called the other night from Canada, asking what I wanted stocked in my fridge on my return. At the time I was so taken aback by just the thought of having a refrigerator, that I couldn't come up with much in the way of a list of contents for it. But a few hours later I found myself food-obsessed for the first time since arriving here (other than my craving for Indian food which I've satisfied twice now in Arusha). I'd actually been able to put all thoughts of missed food out of my mind since arriving here. Amazing to remember how much I love cheese, yogurt, whole grain bread, asparagus...the list goes on and on. Actually, the list DID go on and on when I got around to sending an emailed reply to the grocery provision offer.

So yes, it'll be great to come home for a while. To see my family, my friends...celebrate a little late Christmas with them...toss a log onto my fireplace...stare at the fridge in awe...remember how it feels to be cold...thrill to high-speed internet...all such things.

The $180 Bath

Okay, so I said I wouldn't do it. But you know, after 2 months and a long recent stretch out in the village I really needed a chance to recharge and my bathtub craving was becoming obsessive. So, here I am in Arusha having spent 2 nights at the rather lavish (by my current standards anyhow) Impala Hotel (chosen because of the existence of tubs). I'm now well rested, and feeling cleaner than I have since November. Add in the great Indian and Chinese food served at the hotel and hey, this was a good Christmas present to me. I'm ready to head back to the village this afternoon and work like crazy for my final 3 weeks there....refreshed and relatively clearheaded.

Almost New Year's Eve - December 30th

This will be one of those meandering posts. It's been raining every day since the 27th...today the sun peeked through for the first time in days. Add a nasty cold to that (why, with all the medicines I packed, didn't I think I might need something potent for cold and sinus conditions), and yeah, I'm feeling a wee bit blue.

I guess it shows on my face. As I walked home from lunch in the village this afternoon, at least two people sympathized with me for being so tired. The real clue that my mental state may be a little on the obvious side, was when Maalai popped by to say hello, and I learned through Joseph's translation that he was asking me how I was doing with my loneliness problem. Yikes! In my best efforts at African-ness, I certainly have never told anyone that I was even a little bit lonely. On top of everything else my favorite askari is a mind-reader!

Mostly though, I'm just more than a little tired. Yesterday I taught a dozen people the basics of preparing business plans. I actually had quite a bit of notice that I was going to be leading this class...a whole week in fact...but of course Christmas and the Boxing Day adventure took priority over course planning, so I was less than well prepared to do this. Apparently though, the very fact that I'd pre-done a course outline was downright impressive, and as a result the man who was supposed to co-facilitate the session with me decided I was more than able to handle the full day solo! A quarter of the scheduled participants missed half the day because their vehicle had been stuck on the road from their village (probably the same crevass that caught us on the Maasai wedding trip, only with a few extra days of rain added to the problem!)

Teaching adults, here at LOOCIP, is a whole new experience. Essentially, anyone who has any information that might be considered useful to others, is a potential teacher...with or without benefit of any notion of how to actually teach. And, the most surprising people have the capacity to simply stand up, without any preparation, and teach a class for hours. Of course, I was determined to create an interesting day out of potentially dry material, especially once I discovered that most of my students had really limited reading or writing skills. Language, of course, was problematic, but the head trainer here at the centre did a valiant job of translating my efforts a sentence at a time, even doing his best to mimic my tone and delivery. We did have some fun...I tossed in a few little dramas, got the participants answering questions (and led wild applause each time a correct answer was given), and told as many personal stories as I was able to toss into the mix. I learned a fair bit about the ins and outs of some of their proposed microbusinesses -- buying and selling goats, making bricks, setting up a 'dry grocery' kiosk in a remote village. And the class learned a fair bit about me. I opted to teach them the principles by using a simulated business, and chose in true Canadian style, to establish an imaginary sort of Tim Hortons by the roadside here in Longido. Coffee (kahawa) and Mandazi (almost doughnuts) were our only products, and the name "Kahandazi" seemed to fit well (yes, I did check first to ensure it wasn't a swear word in Swahili). The class was a little taken aback by my enthusiasm for ensuring we set ourselves apart from other eateries by having a super-clean latrine, assuring my rather skeptical audience that this could have make-it-or-break-it consequences when it came to attracting the passing tourists. Mostly, it worked out well though I'm a little concerned that next time I come to Longido I may find a rash of coffee & doughnut shops have sprung up along the roadside. I wouldn't mind a bit if a whole lot of super-clean public latrines were to spring up along the same stretch.

Boxing Day Adventures, Maasai style!

Okay, so maybe I didn't find the best Boxing Day sale ever, on who-knows-what. Maybe I didn't manage to score my usual haul of bargain priced wrapping paper for next Christmas. And maybe I didn't get to eat seemingly endless leftover turkey and dressing. BUT....I did have a pretty interesting Boxing Day nevertheless.

Still full from all the Christmas meals, I was picked up late morning by a crew of wazungus from Arusha. The family of Cheri who had been my housemate here for some time, were all visiting for the holidays (some from Canada, some from Sri Lanka), and we'd all been invited to attend a traditional Maasai wedding celebration in the small village of Engarinaibor. I have no idea how far away it is...can only tell you that it takes an hour and a half to get there by jeep, on some incredibly bad roads.

We were warmly welcomed on arrival and introduced to the bride and groom. Everyone except our party was in full traditional Maasai dress...even Steven who is the Executive Director of LOOCIP and normally wears only Western clothing, was fully decked out in his Maasai finest--sword, stick and all. The groom's face was decorated with designs drawn in red ochre, and his hair was pulled into a top knot which had a very blond extension flowing from it...looked like some sort of animal tail. Overall, the effect was really pretty scary. The bride's face was partially covered by a special headdress. She was really tiny, and looked to be about 12 years old, but I was assured she was actually 18 (from a family of uncharacteristically small folks!) The actual wedding had taken place on Christmas Day. We were there to share in the celebration portion only.

First we were taken for a walk away from the house, where the men were cooking a slaughtered cow and some rice. We were offered cooked meat and bowls of rice to share. The meat arrived in our seating area, a little way apart from the main fire site, carried on a large stick. Steven's brother proceeded to carve off chunks and serve them up for us. Women are not typically invited to share in any of this. However, it seems that it's acceptable for any woman who is not wearing typical Maasai clothing, to take part (though perhaps the presence of three mzungu females accounted for us being seated away from the main group).

Next, we walked back to the house to watch the women dancing. Turned out 'watching' was not an option. Before I knew what I was getting in for, I accepted an offer to join the group. I was then given two large neckpieces to wear...one about the size of a pizza pan, the other a bit smaller, as these are critical to the dance moves. Essentially, if you get your shoulders going just right you can make your neck ornamentation bounce just so. I was placed in the centre of the group and was doing fine to that point, bouncing like I'd been born to it. And then, the jumping began. Now, most of you probably know that the Maasai are known for their jumping ability--from a standing start, they can make great vertical leaps. Silly me, I thought only the men jumped but was about to be proven wrong as again and again I was urged to join with another woman at the centre of our group, and leap like my life depended on it! One small problem arose though. As often happens, I think this group of gals mistook me for a much younger woman, and they really weren't open to accepting that I was quickly worn out by all of this. Oh well, it was a blast and I've got the pictures to prove it!

Next, a well deserved breather, accompanied by a cup of milk-chai and then we were off to watch the arrival of group after group of morani (Maasai warriors). They came in single file processions from all directions, and began a sort of dance competition that lasted for ages. Each group in turn formed a chanting and dancing circle and then they too got into jumping mode. What a sight! I have no idea how many people were ultimately in the main pasture field, but the crowd seemed huge. After a group had danced sufficiently, they slowly moved off and let another begin.

Still panting from my own dance experience, I decided to take a breather and go inside the house to download my photos of the day. I had a chance to show them (once again thankful for the longlife battery on my laptop) to a group of moranis who had gathered in the house. As always, everyone was thrilled to see the pictures on the 'big screen'.

Night was falling (the sun always sets just before 7 here, year round) so the wazungus were asked to join the men of the family at a bonfire a short way from the house. On arrival, after almost stepping in a warm goat carcass in my flipflops, we were seated on benches around the fire, elbow to elbow with the group of men. Goat meat was cooking on sticks over the open fire, and everyone wanted to tell and hear stories from the others. Unfortunately, we rarely had a translator available, so clearly something was lost there, but the spirit of it all was tremendous. I got some extra points by being the only mzungu who accepted the first meat offered--fresh roasted goat liver. Stephen had assured me that this was one of his own herd, and that his goats are faithfully dewormed every 3 months. I happen to be a fan of liver when it's properly cooked, and in recent years have stopped eating it mostly out of fears about the various hormones and such that we're told are given to our cattle back home. With this one being 100% organic, I was happy to partake. It was delicious, though I couldn't get the thought of an accompanying pan of fried onions out of my head!

After the rest of the meat was cooked and shared, it was time for us to pile back into the vehicle and make our way to a guesthouse in the nearby village. We were doing great until our vehicle slipped into a crevass in the muddy road, and left us hung up to the axle on one side. After a fair bit of fruitless pushing, our driver and Joseph (the only one of us who could speak the language) decided to leave the rest of us behind and try to get to the village on foot, find a rescue vehicle, and return to tow us free. So, that left 6 of us, with only one small flashlight, standing around by our vehicle under a sky threatening rain, with at least a 3 hour wait ahead of us. However, one of our members was Felix, ( the Ghanain who was also one of my earlier housemates) and he's not one to stand around not working on a problem. Felix managed to find the jack, rig things up, and get us in a position such that one quick push freed the vehicle. We piled in and drove to catch up with the others at the village. By the time we got there, the guesthouse had given up on our ever showing up, and had given away our rooms. So, not long before midnight we decided to pile back in the vehicle and make our way home. There had been some rain during the day and at times the roads were unbelievably slippery. Luckily our driver has had many years of experience driving in Africa, and got us through everything the road tried to throw at us. Round about 1:30 am, we got back to Longido, and I opened the guesthouse doors to the whole crew. We were all totally exhausted, and 'home' has never looked so good.

Guess the holiday sales will have to wait 'til next year.

Jotu