Friday, December 19, 2008

Home...brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

36 hours of travel, including time to hunt for a cheap pair of socks at the Schipol airport in Amsterdam. My body is not amused at moving from the 30+ degree heat of Longido to today's -29 windchill in Ottawa. I am, however, delighted as always with the wonders of my refrigerator and boundless hot water. Tap water is too cold to drink...hurts my teeth. The grocery store has far too many choices in the laundry soap aisle. High speed internet is fun. Thinking about seeing my sons and retrieving my dog tomorrow morning is exciting! Driving in snow when I haven't driven in months was a bit disconcerting. My favorite hot and sour soup made the drive worthwhile.

I'm home. There are, I suppose, only 5 shopping days left til Christmas, if in fact I had any intention of doing much of that. The next few days will be dizzy ones I suspect, as I try my best to keep one foot in each world. Soon enough I'll be swept up into this one, and Africa will be only a memory until it's time to give into the pull to that other 'home' once again.

I've posted a few of my favorite pictures at Facebook.

Monday, December 15, 2008

More Transitions

Sitting in an Arusha hotel room, enjoying a wee bit of air conditioning...filled my face at the Indian buffet lunch after a long hot shower that would have been pleasant had I not needed to stop midway, get dressed and go seek housekeeping help to deal with a shower head problem that threatened to flood the entire room.

Yesterday was incredibly relaxing but somewhat mind boggling as I found myself sipping red wine and swimming in a gorgeous private pool with the most beautiful vista I've seen in Arusha. The contrasts here are hard to fathom especially after such a long stint out in rural Longido.

I left the village early Saturday morning with Happiness...bound for a town called Monduli where her little guy, Bryan, lives with her mom, while Happy works with us in Longido. Reminded me why I don't much enjoy traveling around the district. We waited one hour in Longido, sitting in a dala-dala (mini van) waiting until a total of 20 or so passengers had assembled such that we could hit the road. The highway to Arusha is under construction thanks to a huge Chinese project to improve the entire road between Nairobi and Arusha. A great thought, but meantime traffic is subjected to these wild detours, nicely called 'diversions', down bumpy and incredibly dusty gravel 'roads' built for the occasion. Between being mashed into the side of the vehicle by my overabundance of seat mates, and not being able to see at points where we were literally in a cloud of dust, I was not a terribly happy camper on arrival, mid-way, at the Arusha bus stop. From there we hopped into another overloaded dala-dala and made our way to Monduli. Enjoyed a pleasant lunch with Happy's mom, played a bit with Bryan and then, back to the bus stop for the return jaunt to Arusha. Once again, an hour or so of waiting for the bus to fill to capacity before departure. Overall, I think I covered about 170 km. Driving time was 3.5 hours. Waiting time 2 hours. Accumulated dust and grime...immeasurable. Arriving at Corey's at the end of the day....priceless.

And now, a few days to kill in Arusha, waiting for my Wednesday night flight to Amsterdam.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Two Sleeps

It is Thursday morning and I can't quite grasp the fact that I will leave Longido on Saturday morning and make my way towards the city and my flight home on Wednesday night. My inbox is full of news of Ottawa transit strikes and blustery weather and changes in political leaders and a gazillion bits that seem like news from another planet.

Here my head is far more filled with thoughts of all the things not yet completed...errands to run today, people to say goodbye to, pictures not yet taken, clothes needing washing, figuring out how to pack an ostrich egg for a transatlantic crossing, children to hug tight so I won't forget how good those hugs feel, a final hike up to say goodbye to Johana and my beloved camp.

Let it snow!! I'll deal with that soon enough.

Monday, December 08, 2008

The Director



This young man is the director of our drama production, which will spread word of the Girl-Mothers program in several of our nearby villages. He's an incredible 'natural' on stage, and great fun in general. I couldn't resist the close up shot of his socks!

Numbered Days

As always the final few weeks have flown by in a blur. Somehow it's already December 8th. This Saturday I pack my bags and say goodbye to Longido. Happiness and I will travel to Monduli (near Arusha) so I can visit with her Mom and little Bryan pre-departure. Then I'll head into Arusha and likely spend my last few African days there...reacquainting myself with hot running water, television and an abundance of fresh fruit...perhaps I'll even manage a bit of Christmas shopping as I doubt I'll be up for much of that on my return to Ottawa. I fly out on Wednesday evening and arrive in snowy (?) Ottawa on Thursday night, after a 12 hour layover in Amsterdam.

And, as always, my feelings about leaving are truly ambivalent...it's always so hard to say goodbye to people I've become so close to. This time it's hard to leave when the project is just gearing up...I'll miss the almost daily excitement as new hurdles get jumped and the project moves forward. I'll miss the warm sunshine even if it does wear me down. I'll miss marsala chai...all spicy and milky and yummy enough that it could (almost) induce me to give up on my morning coffee. I'll miss being 'koko Jo' to all my little ones...and starting each day with hugs and smiles from their adorable wee faces.

But 'home' has it's pulls as well. Family and Christmas and my trusty beagle await. I'm really energized about starting some serious fund raising, now that I know what's at stake and how much change we can bring about for so little money. I'm looking forward to starting back to school – one more course in my International Community Development certificate and a foray into Philosophy as I try my hand at a first Applied Ethics course at the Dominican University. I'm looking forward to seeing how the new and improved Jo re-adapts to life in Canada with a decidedly different viewpoint on life and love than on departure...excited to see what's around the next corner.

Friday, December 05, 2008

Absence of Ageism -- Fountain of Youth??

I just spent a really pleasant afternoon coaching a group of high school students who are preparing to do a community drama about our Girl-Mother program. They'll be heading out next week to start visiting several of the villages, in an effort to spread word of the program by way of their performance.

Terrific bunch of young people, and clearly they enjoyed my approach with them as well. Our session ended with everyone asking for my phone number...I gave it out, though with a caveat that I was not really one to stay up late and wouldn't appreciate calls after my bedtime. I know from experience that I'm going to start receiving all these cute text messages at all hours of the day, just to say 'hello mama, how are you??' And it's always a little strange to realize that a group of kids that age, back home, would have so little interest in initiating ongoing connections with a near-senior-citizen.

Wednesday, December 03, 2008

Speeches, speeches...so boring...


The little girl who's so obviously bored with this ceremony is one of my favorite photo subjects (she's the one missing a few teeth in a posting a few days ago).

Almost Lost my Skin...yikes!

Clean hair...clean clothes...clean feet. I feel like a new woman and am more than content with the face that smiles back at me from the mirror in my room. My dear friend Sarah (the founder of the Montessori pre-school here) looked at me carefully over lunch, and declared that after only 2 days she's happy to see that I'm getting my skin back. I'm not totally sure what she means, but I'm quite happy to know that I got away before I lost my skin entirely!!

Wouldn't you know it...the wind that drove me from the mountainside stopped last night. I guess it truly won the battle. As soon as I finally gave in, packed up and left, it had done its job, and was able to stop. I'll take that as a clear-cut sign that I was meant to come down here and be with my friends for awhile!

Yesterday's team visit to Kitumbeine was a huge success. The father has not only agreed to call off his daughter's impending marriage, the whole family ended up thanking us profusely for starting the program and addressing such a huge problem. So much validation...don't have the words to explain how satisfying it feels to have listened to that little voice in my head years ago, taken a chance on following its direction, and now to know that the outcomes are so, so positive.

Tuesday, December 02, 2008

Theories of Relativity

Funny, I've only been at the LOOCIP guest house for a few hours...my bags are packed up at camp but I won't be able to have them transported down til evening...and I feel like I've moved into an ultra-modern room (though you'd chuckle, I'm sure, if you could see it).

Some government meeting is taking place at the main hall so the generator is turned on and with this bonus blast of electricity mid-day, I am finally able to indulge in listening to some of the great music that Matthew loaded on my laptop pre-departure. Nothing quite like a little Bach in Africa, when you just want to stop and chill out. I know that later today I can have a real shower. Last night the girls gave me a real treat...they warmed me a full basin of water, handed over a brush and a bar of soap, and let me indulge in half an hour of foot soaking and scrubbing. At least now I know what colour my toes actually are at this point! What a luxurious time it was...a gazillion dollar spa treatment couldn't have felt better!

It was tough to go and pack up my things at camp. Not sure who will miss me more...Johana or the dogs, and it's always hard to make people believe that you'll really come back when you say you will. I guess they've all seen people come and go, never to return in spite of what might be said to the contrary.

The girl-mother team is out in the village of Kitumbeine today, doing a mediation with a traditional Maasai father who wants to marry off his pregnant daughter as soon as possible. She, the daughter, has been with us almost two weeks now, and is so hopeful that the team will be successful in changing her father's mind. Fingers crossed...one way or the other this few hours of meetings will determine this beautiful young woman's future potential. She will either get to continue high school after the birth (she's already finished her third year), or very soon she will be married to the man of her father's choosing and have to resign herself to the role of a traditional wife.

Transitions

Sunday night I opened my phone to check my gmail. It was 12:01 on 12/01. My tent was heaving like never before...stuff was falling off my table...the frame was really moving in the wind. I made up my mind at that point, that I'd had enough...hit the limit of my courage perhaps, but in any case...had enough. I came and slept Monday night with two of the young women who comprise my Longido 'family' and woke this morning with a clear decision to go and pack my bags and move down the hill to LOCIP for the rest of my time. The alternative was to try and find an earlier flight home, and this is so much more pleasant a decision!! I'm really looking forward to being part of this little community again, as this was my home for 6 months, first trip and it's been strange to be staying so far away from the comings and goings of everyday family life here.

No regrets, and I'm truly looking forward to coming back to camp in May, when I'm told the windy season will be but a distant memory. For now...well, I get to look forward to the thrill of 3 hours of electricity every night...no shortage of water for half-way decent showers. 7 weeks at camp have been awesome. I discovered a lot about myself, and I suppose it's fitting that I should also have learned my limits there.

Monday, December 01, 2008

Lazy Sunday

On days like today I realize how this place really teaches one (well THIS one anyhow) how to do pretty darned close to nothing with a weekend, without guilt or regret. Let's see. I got up. Made coffee. Decided to treat the others to a batch of french toast...yes Jo, you really can make pancake syrup by boiling up brown sugar and water awhile. Fed the dogs. Took a 4 km walk into 'town' and back...to buy smokes and powdered milk and stop off for a cup of milky spiced chai with Halima at the mid-way point. Back home to cool off in my tent and get lost for a while in a New York Times crossword puzzle book (nice to check and ensure the vocabulary is still relatively intact and fun to carry on what for years was a Sunday morning tradition back home). Feeling a little anti-social today, so just as well that pretty much everyone I know will have been at church and not offended by my not stopping in for morning greetings.

Can't believe it's the end of November today. Six weeks have pretty much flown by, and I'll be home and shivering in just 18 days. Looking forward to tomorrow...we get to see the dress rehearsal of a drama that has been put together by LOOCIP staff as a community sensitization tool around the Girl-Mothers program. Should be fun, and hopefully it will provide a strong means of getting word out to the villages about the program. While all the usual 'official channels' have already been informed, we're learning that news of the program hasn't been filtering down to the vast majority of girls and parents who need to know it exists. With luck, this drama presentation, which will go out to several of the main villages over the next few weeks, will help to correct that situation.

And now...a sunny afternoon with nothing more pressing on my to-do list than to take a shower once the tank is nicely sun-warmed. Oh yes, and to eat an avocado that Paula, our latest camp visitor, brought from Arusha (along with mangoes, pineapple and big juicy oranges...all treats that rarely make an appearance here in Longido).

Friday, November 28, 2008

More Photos while the Connection's Good!






The group shot is me with some of the young women currently participating in our Girl-Mothers project. The others are random pictures of friends and neighbours.

Homeward Pull

Even without checking the calendar I am beginning to feel the pull for 'home'. My only pair of shoes, my flip-flops, are at that point where there's far more flop than flip going on (please make it 2 more weeks...please!!) I can tell from the reflection in my laptop screen that I'm due for a haircut, never having been totally comfortable with the spiky punk look. The pups are becoming too attached...it's time to let them come to see Johana as their alpha provider, not this mzungu who is just passing through.

Money's running thin. Time is running out on the gazillion to-dos, to-visits, to-remembers. I am oh so satisfied with the progress I've seen in the projects...I know it's time to get back to Canada and focus on making money so the team here can keep going forward by leaps and bounds. I want to go home so I can start planning for coming back, crazy as that sounds. I'm telling everyone that they'll likely see me back here for May, June and July...for African winter, when my energy doubles with the cooler temperatures...when I can comfortably dress in jeans and T-shirts without fear of melting in the noon day heat.

I have gotten so much out of this trip on a personal level. Time to reflect and ponder from our mountain retreat has been incredible. So much sorted out, learned, discovered and re-discovered. I will be coming home braver, bolder, bedraggled, besotted, bouncier, blessed....BETTER!

And now, back to it, with the remaining time.

Thursday, November 27, 2008

The Amazing Shrinking Woman

Probably good that I don't have access to a weight scale. I only know that my pants are falling down on a regular basis, so I'm limited to the couple with drawstrings. My ankles must be smaller because my anklet chains keep falling off too. I think I had breasts when I left Ottawa...now where did I leave the darned things?? They certainly seem to have disappeared. Perhaps that's why the old gals look so sympathetic when I walk past them. Traditional Maasai believe that breast size is a direct indicator of the amount of, shall we say, "nookie" one is indulging in. Clearly they know that I'm downright deprived! (Heaven only knows what they think of some of the buxom young volunteers floating around the village these days!!)

My tan lines are probably pretty hilarious too, though I can't be sure as I haven't seen myself in a proper mirror in weeks. My hands and forearms are dark brown (by my standards anyhow)...my feet, well, maybe it's just dirt, but no, the flip flop tan lines are pretty obvious...I expect my face is brown too, since I never use sunscreen. The contrast to my pasty white legs has to be striking.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

I'll Huff and I'll Puff....

Yes indeed...the story of the three little pigs keeps filling my half-dreams. The wind on the mountain seems to grow stronger and blow longer every evening. I lie in my bed, dozing, then awakening when the sides of the tent billow in and poke me. I think of that story of childhood, and wonder what the odds are that my house of canvas will hold up better than the ill-fated houses of straw and sticks. Last night was the worst (so far). I was convinced they'd find me this morning, hidden under my bed, with the roof trusses caved in on top of the tent, and me.

It's reminiscent of being in a boat on a rough sea. The canvas noises are of course just like those of full sails. The wood frames creak like ancient masts, the guywires whine and squawk as the gusts come through. The wind even found her way under the tent last night, and at one point I swear my bed was making little jumps. There weren't a whole lot of options to consider, either. I could have slept in the latrine I suppose, but trust me...no. Or I could have shared the kitchen building with Johana and the dogs and the various creepy crawlies that like to go in there at night, but again...no. Instead I went to the front porch, smoked cigarettes while staring at the most gorgeous starscape...amazing that while we were being battered and blown about, those stars didn't move the tiniest bit. It was a calming influence, and eventually, exhausted, I managed to brave the return to my jumpy bed and a few hours of sleep. They tell me it will get better....by February!!!

Friday, November 21, 2008

Mayai....Oh My

I definitely need to sign up for kiswahili classes before my next visit. My inability to teach myself is made clearer by the day, and this morning's mixup was almost too sad to be funny.

Early this morning I noticed a woman coming along the ridge to camp, and eventually recognized her as my Koko (grandmother) from the village. Seemed odd that this old gal would be making the trek up to see me, but hey, lots of things seem odd so I was only curious as I went to give her my greetings and a welcome. She was toting a rather large bag, and luckily Johanna was home to translate. Apparently, the bag contained the objects I had asked her for recently. Now...understand that I had zero recollection of asking Koko for anything, so I was somewhat mystified. Things didn't come any clearer when she pulled out two beautifully beaded ostrich eggs. I may forget minor things on a regular basis (let's chalk that up to menopause, shall we?) but c'mon....I would not have forgotten asking someone to make me a couple of fancy ostrich eggs!! She insisted I'd asked, and reminded me that it was about a week ago as we were walking around the village with the troupe of Canadian visitors. They had taken a picture of her beside me, surely I remembered??? That part I DID remember, and then the light bulb came on. In the course of that meeting I had told Koko that sometime soon I would come and buy some eggs from her. During my earlier visit, her family had been my primary source of chicken eggs. Somehow it seems, while I was overconfidently talking about mayai (that's said my-eye) I hadn't thought to qualify with the 'chicken' part, even though I actually know that word in kiswahili too (it's kuku). And, hey, who wouldn't jump to the conclusion that there was an ostrich involved in the request??...easy mistake!!

Long story short...she wanted $10 per egg. Everyone agreed that was nutso extravagant for something I didn't want in the first place, but I felt so bad about the confusion and her trek to the camp, that I offered to take just one, for $5, and she was overjoyed that we'd come to that sort of compromise.

All's well that end's well. Somebody is getting a beaded ostrich egg for Christmas....maybe the person who emails me the funniest story about why THEY deserve to be the recipient!

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Best Laid Plans


Let's just call this "the day the kitchen shelter fell down" and not go into a whole lot of detail. Nobody was hurt. Some lessons are harder to learn than others.

One Month In

(wrote this November 15th...I suppose that says something about the number of communication issues I've been having as of late...oh well...)

I celebrated this anniversary of sorts by redecorating my tent...well, in reality, by shifting the positions of my 2 beds and 2 tables, but hey, it's a huge difference in floor space and Johana agrees it looks a whole lot better than before! Then I gave the kitchen a thorough cleaning, and found my first scorpion in the process. Luckily it was just a wee one (even the full grown ones here aren't deadly...though they can give you a nasty sting that leads to a painful day of dealing with swelling and such). Going to have to be more careful about daily sweepings under all the boxes that are in the kitchen to prevent a recurrence of that sort of visitor.

I'm food obsessed today. Maybe that's a one-month thing, or maybe it comes of the fact that in the past few days I've noticed that my pants are starting to fall down if I don't wear a belt. We're eating a lot of pasta up here, so it's not that I'm not taking in enough calories....probably the weight loss is mostly due to the necessary hikes up and down the mountainside, in flipflops no less. Anyhow, I want a chicken breast – a real one, meaty, juicy, in some sort of sauce that isn't based on tomatoes. I want a warm, crusty roll with butter melting on it and some really good cheese. A small steak would be a nice change from the fresh fire roasted goat meat that the warriors carve up for us at every celebratory event (though I must say I still love the roasted goat liver, when I can manage to get some of that. It's typically reserved for folks far more important than I.) Ooooh, and a monster-sized bowl of fresh green salad. Sigh. I hate knowing in advance what I'll be dreaming about tonight...probably will end up gnawing on my pillow like that fellow in the McDonalds TV commercial.

I've decided that it's time to get beyond the 'vacation' stage, and buckle down to some actual work at LOOCIP for month two. No shortage of tasks I can pitch in on, I'm sure.

Thank you to everyone who has responded to my appeal for donations to the Girl-Mother program. I have great news!! Last week my kaka (brother) Ngeresa came back from his third Parliamentary committee appearance with the mind-boggling news that effective immediately, all girls who are involved in our program will be allowed to return to government school after their babies are born! It's going to take some time to get the law changed (sounds like a 3 to 4 year process here), but we've broken down the door, and getting this special permission for the girls we're aware of, is a huge step...one that clearly sets a precedent and spells out the government's intention to follow through with the necessary changes. Needless to say, Ngeresa is now, more than ever, officially my hero!!! And now, with awareness of this spreading in nearby communities, I expect we'll start to see the girls come in to the project in far greater numbers than before.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

November 11th

Strange night. It's darker inside my tent than out. There'd be great moonshadows if not for the fact that it's such a blustery evening. I've been feeling, dare I say, a little under the weather today...likely a phrase to be taken literally. We had another gusty downpour last night and the tarp we'd rigged to try and keep the back of my tent a little drier only worked to reduce the morning puddles a little. It was a tough night for sleeping. These big tents puff in and out with the winds, flaps flap, metallic clips tinkle, and the rain, well it drips or pelts or whatever it happens to feel like doing. I told myself I was at the seaside, and eventually fell asleep.


Stuck around camp today and hauled bricks and logs to reinforce the bottom of my tarp barricade...so far it's working. We had two intense, but relatively quick, downpours today, and so far the floor is still perfectly dry. Progress!! Tomorrow we have visitors coming in from Canada, so there's been a flurry of last minute improvements. In a twisted sort of way, it felt like being on one of those ever-present home decorating shows...the sort where everything is supposed to get accomplished in 24 hours. Amid the downpours we had someone painting our kitchens, another trying to finish off the dining shelter, and lots of general tent and site maintenance in between. Another sprint tomorrow morning, and we should be looking good and ready to welcome our visitors.


It's the time of the hilarious red bugs. These little critters are all over the ground since the rains started. They are absolutely the most amazing red...cartoon red...brilliant almost florescent red...they look like they're lit from within-- Tiny, harmless, and every time I see a bunch of them I feel like laughing. And I'm not sure if it's them, but in the moonlight, the ground is covered by tiny glowing lights...like grounded fireflies, or fallen little stars.


I've turned a corner here at the camp, since the night of the big storm. I've had a few solo nights and have truly come to enjoy them. I suppose part of me figures...what could be worse than what we've been through? And while I probably shouldn't tempt the fates to show me that answer, I've really gone past a whole level of unfounded fears, and am light years more comfortable now. Maybe I've got a little of my grandpa's 'hermit' nature going on...I was actually a bit resentful (only a bit...it's actually wonderful to have us all back together) when everyone came back to camp yesterday, after having the place to myself for a few days!

Sunday, November 09, 2008

Misc Photos



Stormy Weather

Let me begin the story of a few nights ago, by saying that right now I am safe and well, the sun is shining, my tent is providing cozy shade, and the world is a lot greener than it was yesterday. I want to give you that happy ending in advance of telling my adventure story, since I do hate to worry those of you back home.

The long awaited rain arrived yesterday afternoon. Some of our surrounding sub-villages had reached the point of desperation and had gone to give goats to the 'witchdoctor' in the hopes of moving things along. Perhaps that had some influence. It was no ordinary rain. People are saying that yesterday will become part of local history, as there has never been such a furious rain storm here.

I like to think that Lordidi, the 13 year old Maasai boy who was with us throughout the adventure, will someday tell his grandchildren about that day. The day of the storm. For him, the first time he ever slept, at least part of the night, in a 'real' house, in the company of 4 wazungu to boot! He will tell them about the endless rounds of lightning and thunder. He will tell them how we were all driving in the village in the trusty ancient Land Cruiser when suddenly the sand road we were on turned into a raging river. How we slid from the road and ended up mired with the vehicle on a 45 degree angle. How the water was swirling right up to the windows on his side. How we called for help (thank goodness for cell phones) and despite mighty efforts by all who came out to assist, couldn't get the vehicle out, even after the river subsided and once again the road became a road. How Corey, trying to scope out our situation in the pelting rain and darkness, illuminated only by a headlamp and lightning, managed to save a young boy who was desperate to get home, even though that meant crossing the waters that had filled the gully on his road home, and would have swept the wee fellow away. How hours later, we ended up at the LOOCIP guest house (where I lived last year) and managed to round up blankets and sheets and settle ourselves in for a reasonable rest of the night's fitful sleep. How this morning we learned of how many goats had died at the nearby bomas, either from drowning or simply from exposure to the night-long driving rain. How someone carried a dead bushbuck down from the hillside. How a tractor finally managed to pull our vehicle free from the mud. How, when we returned to camp mid-morning, Jotu's tent floor was covered in mud and water (thank goodness I'd detected a bit of leakage earlier in the evening, and had moved all the gear that usually lives under my beds to higher and drier locations).

His grandchildren will listen with wide eyes.

Thursday, November 06, 2008

Hot Time...Summer in the City

(wrote this Tuesday...posting on Thursday...let's just say I've missed the boat on a few internet connection possibilities...finally back on line, back in the village)

Came to Arusha this morning. I was getting a little bummed out up on the mountain, and was advised by many to get myself out and about for a few days of R&R far removed from the loneliness of my perch. Interesting trip, as usual. The Peugeot's are designed to carry a driver and seven passengers. Today's driver saw nothing wrong with putting two extra people on board, so I shared a single seat for one hour with a young Maasai fellow. Quite the sensation...one hour propped up on one buttock, one arm cradling my computer laden backpack, the other arm draped around the shoulders of this young fellow I'd never met...him pressed into my chest, nicely tucked under my arm (he fell asleep midway and I suppose we'd have been quite a picture for someone looking in...this young fellow cuddled up by sheer necessity, head bobbing, my arm protectively around him).

Stepped into my favorite Naaz hotel...modest but safe and clean...and almost wiped out on the tile floors. The soles of my flipflops were totally encrusted with the thorny burrs I collect by walking around camp. On the sand they sort of work like studded car tires, giving me a bit of extra traction on the hills. On tile though, it felt like I was wearing ice skates. So, spent an hour picking them out of my only shoes.

How to describe the joy of a hot shower, with more than enough water for a full shampoo and careful rinse and even a detailed foot scrubbing? Bliss! Then I grabbed a terrific Indian buffet lunch downstairs, met up with an old friend from last year, and found myself an ATM that was compatible with my bank card. Back in my room now, watching TV news of the US Election and munching on Malaysian knock-off Prigle-y sort of chips. The novelty of this city time will undoubtedly wear off quite quickly, but I intend to make the most of the next two days or so.

Thursday, October 30, 2008

When is a Cheetah not a Cheetah??

...when it turns out, after many clarifications and translations, that the goats above our camp were not in fact killed by a cheetah, but rather by a roving pack of wild dogs. They are actually an endangered species here, and the last sighting in our area was 8 years ago, so it's really quite exciting that they passed through our neighborhood.

And while we're doing riddles...how do you fix the zipper on a safari tent when you're trapped inside and feeling a little claustrophobic about trying to get out through a one foot opening??? Candle wax and elbow grease...great combination. Ah the things I'm learning!

Of Mountains

Thursday...a beautiful cloudless morning with the mountains finally in full view after days of hiding, from the porch of my tent.

Kilimanjaro...the elusive beauty. Most days you can look in her direction and see no sign whatsoever that she even exists among the clouds. And on days like today when she stands so clearly visible, it is sad to see so readily how her fabled snows have continued to decline. It is difficult to realize that we have done this...with our foolhardy bickering over the reality of climate change and our endless contribution to it. I shudder to imagine what it will mean when those snows are gone...what the implications will be for this already thirsty, no, at times parched, country.

Perhaps Kili's role is to continue as the beautiful siren...the mermaid luring so many to come to Africa, hoping that they will look beyond the well-oiled tourism machinery and take the time to get to know and love a more real Tanzania far from the souvenir markets and multi-star hotels.

There is a tree that obstructs the Kili view from my porch. I must stroll around camp a little to see the summit. They have offered to remove or radically prune the offending tree and I continue to decline. I have more than adequate compensation in the fact that Mount Meru is at the very center of my porch view. It is Meru, a little less shy than her big sister, and graced with far more intriguing lines, that will be permanently etched in my dreams of Africa.

I have cooked the pups their daily pot of maize porridge and little dried stinky fish. They are contentedly curled up together for an after breakfast nap. My tent is swept, as are the kitchen and latrine. The dishes are washed and I'm as well showered as I get. Each day I seem to get through my necessary morning chores a little faster, as they become more and more routine. I am trying, by cellphone text messaging, to sort out logistics for a small building project we need to undertake at camp...to get confirmation about necessary materials, find out if there is a vehicle available to bring them to camp, when, how much...and while I know that as in most projects here it will all somehow come together, it is difficult to keep the frustration level down at this point.

Kathrijn and I were alone at camp last night and indulged ourselves with a wonderful vegetable (and vitamin) filled meal--A plateful of cucumber and tomato slices, and a side dish treat of boil-in-a-bag curried potatoes and peas that I brought from home. The wind came up strong by 8pm and Johana was late getting back to camp, so we decided to calm the little bit of anxiety we both felt, with steamy mugs of hot chocolate (something I must remember to bring more of next time as it's an expensive luxury item in Arusha) before hunkering down in our respective tents.

And now, off to the LOOCIP Centre to see what I might be able to contribute today. So far, this really has felt like the promised 'vacation' but I know that within the coming week I'll be begging for some concrete jobs to sink my teeth into this time around.

Friends and family...I miss you all and hope you're well. I hear the snow has already started to fall in Ottawa – I don't miss that!! Thank you Mike for my first phone call from home. Thanks to all of you who've taken time to write. Your emails never fail to make my day.



Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Head & Shoulders, Knees & Toes

As I walked to the village yesterday, past our boma, one of the little fellas came out to greet me. He attends the Montessori pre-school in Oltepesi, and was very pleased to tell me, oh so clearly: "My name is Paolo". And then, he insisted that I join him in a few choruses of the English song he has learned, so.... started my morning with some rousing rounds of Head & Shoulders, Knees and Toes. Commuting at its best.

Montessori Pre-School in Oltepesi



Monday, October 27, 2008

Sunday evening. As a result of last minute changes of plans, I've been given another shot at spending a solo night at camp. It is 7pm as I write this and the light of my laptop screen is all there is between me and the blackness that's just arrived as quickly as it always does. Thank goodness for typing classes in high school...I can't see my keyboard! I have kerosene lanterns but it's windy and the wobbly light would probably be far more eerie than the darkness. Even Johana is gone for awhile. He didn't look too tempted by the thought of sharing my lazy dinner of ramen noodles (with a fresh tomato on the side) and has gone to his home for some REAL food. He'll be back by 8:30 as usual, and I know he'll pass by my tent to ensure I'm okay before he goes off to his puptent to read my Swahili/English phrasebook by the light of his hand-powered flashlight.

Miles away there are occasional lights that seem to descend from the sky. In reality they are the lights of cars entering this valley on the Arusha-Nairobi highway. On Friday there was a high speed collision involving a local car and a large truck, not too far from Longido. Tomorrow, sadly, I will attend my first burial ceremony here, as the young nephew of my dear friend Vickie (aka Mama Farrajah to readers from last trip) was killed. Three others were apparently seriously injured. Pole sana.

Many thanks to Matthew for loading up my computer with music pre-departure. Tonight, for the first time, it will serve as good company and be well worth the use of available battery powered time. Of course, if the boma singing starts, I'll revert to that in a heartbeat. Meantime, this is a delightful break from the ever-present cricket songs...who'd've thought I'd ever find myself sitting in a tent on an African hillside listening to the Wyrd Sisters? For that matter...who'd've thought any of this???

Sunday, October 26, 2008

School shoes...outside the Oltepesi village Montessori school.















Johanna with Meru, our littlest pup.

A Greener Sunday

Sunday, October 26th....I know the Sunday part because I heard the singing coming from the Baptist church in the village early this morning. The 26th part? I only know that because my computer tells me so.

I woke to a new sound and then a wonderful fresh new smell. The rain has come!! How strange to feel chilly with just one blanket. How good to see the trees looking greener after just one little rain shower to dust them off a bit. And now, nearing noon, what a treat for this heat-weary mzungu...a day still cloudy and breezy and, for me, comfortable. I celebrated the rain by allowing myself a teensy bit of extra shower water and an inaugural go at shaving my legs in cold water...dodging around all the little puppy scratches that adorn them of course.

It was good to have Happyness staying with me last night. We came up to camp about 4pm and I couldn't figure out why there were so many young men in the immediate area. Johanna explained that earlier in the day it was discovered that a 'cheetah' had eaten 3 goats a little ways up the mountainside. Now, I must interject...Happy tried to explain to me that sometimes a cheetah isn't a cheetah. I didn't exactly end up understanding (when do I ever, totally??) but SOMETHING ate the goats and that certainly warranted a great deal of discussion and concern around here. We were, as always, assured of our safety down here at the camp though, so with the wind low I actually had the best sleep yet, helped along I'm sure, by the pleasure of hearing someone breathing in the bed beside mine.

This morning I learned to cook maize porridge for the dogs. They've had a few days of the extravagance of my oatmeal and powdered milk, but that's ridiculously expensive as dog food.

I feel good today. I'm looking forward to a visit soon, from my friend Abel who says he'll come to greet me after church. Then back to the internet centre which hopefully will be open as promised so I can post this and reply to some of the emails that came through last evening.

Tomorrow it may all change, but for today I think what I feel most (and what I came here most needing to relearn and truly internalize) is acceptance. A long catch-up conversation with Happyness last evening reminded me of why I generally feel less anxiety here in Longido. Here it is somehow easier to reconcile acceptance of the present, with the contagious faith and hope in fulfilled dreams tomorrow. Here, everything is possible so long as we continue to believe in that possibility. No need or even sense in trying to rationalize away the hopes and feelings that back home came with a boatload of obstacles. This is not a place conducive to falling out of even lopsided love.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Early to Bed and Early to Rise

Last night I fell asleep to the singing of the children living below our mountainside perch. It was such an incredibly beautiful lullaby, and, since I tend to retire early with the 7pm sunsets here, the music went on long after I'd climbed under my net. This morning I woke to crowing roosters and the echoes of the baboons arguing further up on the mountain. Rolled over to find the rising sun was a blazing red ball...tried to take a photo but the camera wasn't able to capture what I was seeing, and I still don't know enough about how to change settings and such. You'll just have to trust me...it was absolutely way better-than-postcard perfect!

Because the others have gone to Arusha for the weekend, I've invited my 'daughter' Happyness to come for a sleepover tonight. My first 'tent guest'! So, I spent the morning reorganizing my gear and making up the second bed in preparation for her visit.

The puppies are thriving! They have already learned where 'home' begins and ends, and they come running at the sound of their names. I'd forgotten how nasty little puppy teeth and claws can be though...they've got me well scratched up in their exuberance!

Must keep this short today. I'm off to the shops area to pick up some soda for tonight. I'd forgotten how much I love Bitter Lemon. Anyone looking for a cause can start petitioning Coca Cola Ltd. to make the stuff available in Canada!

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

3 Generations at Yesterday's Thank You Celebration

Settling In

This morning we visited the boma of the family who have graciously permitted us to establish camp on their land, delivering the gifts of flour, tea, sugar and oil to the mzee (male head of the household) for distribution to his wives. My tent, (now dubbed “Meruview” because Mount Meru is the prominent feature of the incredible panorama that greets me each time I pass from my tent to my porch), is situated such that I can look down the hillside to the boma...and my evenings are full of sounds of singing children, cowbells, and bleating goats.

Johana, our watchman and general helper here at the camp, arrived this morning with two puppies and as I write this, he's busy building a dog house made of bricks for the pair – Kili and Meru.

I wish I could explain how serene and beautiful our little camp is. I will try to upload lots of photos when I'm next in Arusha, but that likely won't capture the view of stars from the window beside my bed, nor the little bush beside my porch that comes alive with the songs of a gazillion wee birds every morning.

We (currently 'we' are Corey, Katrijn (a visiting student from Belgium), and me) were laughing yesterday as we hiked to LOOCIP to begin the workday...wondering if there could possibly be a more beautiful commute to work than ours!

As always the days are going by so quickly. Sunday I was fortunate that a visiting team from Rotary in Arusha was being given a tour of many of the LOOCIP projects, so I was able to join them and get myself updated on how much has being going on since last year. The Montessori classroom in Oltepesi is now housed in a marvelous traditional Maasai structure (still under the original tree), so now the school supplies are well stored and the children can attend irrespective of the weather. There have been so many positive changes to that and many other programs since I left in June 07.

Yesterday, I was treated to a surprise thank-you party. The first five girls taking part in our Girl-Mother project came to Longido, some with their parents, all with their babies, to greet me and to speak about the value of the program in their lives. How do I tell you how deeply that touched my heart? You'll be hearing more from me about this program because the time has come to seek out some financial assistance beyond what I and a few wonderfully supportive friends can provide, to see our current successes continue to expand and reach more and more girls.

Time to pack up my computer and walk down to the LOOCIP Centre and then to the village for a bit of shopping for basic provisions at the Wednesday market.

I'm again able to receive emails on my cellphone here at the camp (great reception on the mountain!). Given an uncharacteristic bout of insomnia, it's wonderful to be able to check my mail in the middle of the night and find friendly messages from home. Thank you to those who've been contributing to that antidote to the inevitable twinges of missing home. I will be staying solo at the camp for a few days starting Thursday evening (with Johana here to keep me company). Bit of a test for myself, I suppose. There truly is nothing to fear here, but the darkness and the sound of the wind pulling at my tent flaps, and the baboons chattering away higher up the mountain, will require a bit more courage than I'm usually called upon to display in Ottawa. Wish me luck!

Monday, October 20, 2008

Longido at last!

Forgive me if I sound distracted. There is a large noisy cow outside the window at the new internet center. It has taken an hour of juggling IP addresses, but I have unbelievably connected at a reasonable speed from the comfort of a new building on the LOOCIP compound.

Saturday, moving day, began with a bang. Well actually more of a screech. We were hit by a lorry as we made our way to our waiting transport from Arusha. The ugly metal on metal sound as small Suzuki met the side of large lorry was far worse than the ultimate superficial damage. In the end it only amounted to a frustration and a delay.

We got our gear piled into a hired Peugeot...a great one with no evident duct tape holding any necessary bits on, and a terrific driver to boot...and made our way to Longido through the familiar but dusty landscape. Arriving at the complex was a regular hugfest. My wee Arnold has grown so much and came running for hugs from Mama Jotu. So many welcoming faces.

Our tent camp is difficult to describe..hopefully I can upload photos soon. The panorama from my tent porch includes Kilimanjaro, Mt. Meru., and miles and miles of big African sky. The trees are full of birds especially in the early morning.

The only downside so far, is the night wind which begins at 9pm and goes til after midnight. My tent howls and flaps and I haven't been able to learn to sleep through the noise yet. But, the mesh window at my bedside lets me look out at a blanket of stars in the blackest night you could imagine.

I'm rushing to vacate this space for an incoming class. I will try to write again soon.

Healthy, happy, getting adjusted, all's well.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Tanzanian re-entry

I had been anticipating the smells...the delicious ever-present wood smoke and florals, and wasn't at all disappointed from the moment I stepped out of the plane following an uneventful and mercifully short journey this time -- only 24 hours of travel time from door to door.

It all feels like 'home', so incredibly familiar. Last evening found me at my favorite Arusha eatery, sitting outdoors next to a busy street with my collegues Corey and Stephen, sharing platters of barbequed fish and chicken and roasted sweet plantain. A charcoal water heater nearby, with a spigot for hand washing pre and post the feast, consumed without cutlery (unless you place a special request for it, and really...who'd want to!?!) So much more enjoyable to have 30 friendly fingers tearing off chunks of delicious fish, and scrambling for the yummy bits of shredded cabbage and carrots in whatever that delightful sauce was. Cold African beer to wash it all down.

The jacarandas and bougainvilleas are in full, glorious bloom. The weather is perfect...cool enough for a duvet at night, deliciously warm in the daytime. Today was spent buying odds and ends for equipping our tent houses, and hopefully we'll be travelling to the village (how, has yet to be determined) on Saturday.

The internet seems to be slower than ever, so it remains to be seen if I'll be able to start publishing photos anytime soon.

Home...in so many ways this does feel like home, though here in the city I know that in reality I likely could never feel comfortable living behind a gated fence, separated from my neigbours this way.

Saturday, October 04, 2008

Justin Hines - Wish You Well

From my new favorite Canadian singer/songwriter, a song that says "Goodbye 'til I'm back" better than I possibly can.


Thursday, September 25, 2008

Prelude to Longido Visit #3

September 14th, 2008. One month, precisely, from today I will have fallen down the rabbit hole, stepped through the mirror and found myself inhaling the smells of an African evening. The very act of saying that brings the anxiety up in my throat. And yet, I choose...

Thirty something days until...thirty something days to fill in advance with the things I know from experience will be most missed. Consciously and sometimes not I already find myself standing too long in a hot shower. I overindulge in cheese and yogurt and all those things that require the presence of a refrigerator in one's life, knowing full well that soon cheese will come to mean an occasional treat of a triangle of strange stuff bearing the image of a laughing cow (laughing, I'm sure, at the thought that some would consider the contents to be cheese). I'm drawn to the smörgåsbord of international cuisine that's available to me here, to seeing the latest films, to going to the theater and eating Cheetos just because for a little while longer, I can.

Thirty something days to overindulge my trusty dog in the hopes she'll not decide she loves her foster 'parents' more than me and sulk when the months are gone by and it's time to come back home with me. Days to fill with preventative inoculations and dental checkups and visa applications and nights to obsess over not having a loving face to memorize up close and keep ready for the nighttime ritual.

Each day in Africa ends, for me, with a need to recount the day and either laugh or cry...often alone, I resort to telling the day's stories to a pitch black sky filled with unbelievable numbers of stars, close enough to touch. I tuck myself in, under the mosquito netting around my bed, and not having a wealth of prayers in my repertoire, calm myself with some combination of “Now I Lay Me Down to Sleep” and the Serenity Prayer. And I learned, last time, that it's enough, well almost enough, to then be able to conjure up the vision of that loving face...there to listen and share and hold tight to til it all starts again with the next sunrise. And yet, with or without a face safely stowed in my carry-on luggage, I choose...

I choose to go back. I've finally got part of the answer to the “what's in it for you?” question that everyone who works in international development needs to search for the honest answer to. Africa is teaching me remedial lessons I somehow missed in the somewhat dysfunctional course of my life. Africa is introducing me (never too late) to a gamut of honest-to-god emotions...forcing me to express them, and trust them, and honor them as real. In the extremes of any African day, it is impossible not to feel and express the spectrum that is somehow kept tucked away, or denied, or at best politely muted or timidly acknowledged here...In Africa, I am flat-out angry, joyful, terrified, hopeful, sad, proud, fearful, frustrated, lonely, grateful and fearless. In Africa I laugh from my belly and can soak a pillow in tears. I choose not to miss the opportunity to keep learning these things, late perhaps, but never too.

Today I spent twenty minutes inside a noisy MRI machine, having my brain scanned. I needed a plan to deal with the otherwise inevitable claustrophobia...I chose to shut my eyes tight and spend twenty minutes walking through my Tanzanian village, seeing the faces of the friends there, smelling the ever present smoky smells, pausing for cows to cross the sandy road, hearing the greetings and the taunts of nervous children. I smiled at the thought of the MRI technicians maybe puzzling over a spot detected in the scan...glowing warmly with the distinct colors of an African sunset.

I choose.

Wednesday, September 03, 2008

Tanzania Re-Bound

Coming soon to this very spot...the adventure continues with travels to Tanzania and (hopefully) to northern Kenya, starting October 2008. It's been a challenging year-plus since my return to Canada, but the time has come to get my feet back onto African soil. Some of what were only notions in the earlier postings are now for-real projects...I'm looking forward to providing first-hand updates from Longido. So stay tuned and watch for new entries beginning approximately October 10th.